Recognizing and assessing genuine leather.

Real leather vs. faux leather

Real leather comes from animal hide and is composed of fibers that flex and adapt over time and with use. Faux leather, PU, ​​and coated fabrics can come very close visually—mimicking the sheen, grain, and even the scent of the real thing.

The most practical indicators are rarely found in a single detail, but rather in a combination of them. A faux leather jacket often features a uniform, almost identical grain pattern across the entire surface, whereas real leather varies from centimeter to centimeter. With PU, the underside often looks and feels like textile or foam rather than the natural flesh side of a hide. Stitching that passes all the way through the garment indicates a lining or layered construction; with thick real leather, the needle does not go all the way through.

And yet, no single indicator is definitive. Well-maintained vintage pieces can look surprisingly authentic, while high-quality faux leather can closely resemble the real thing. That is why Your Johnny never bases a material assessment on a single photo.

Old leather is not automatically bad leather

A twenty-year-old leather jacket with a beautiful patina is often better than a new garment of mediocre quality. Signs of wear are not defects; patina, darkening at the seams, and soft creases actually show that the leather has lived and been well cared for.

What does count as a genuine defect: cracks running through the material, hard or sticky patches, fraying or missing stitching, a lining or underside that has deteriorated, and hardware that is stuck or screwed shut. These are signs to pass on an item, even if it is otherwise beautiful.

What Johnny looks for in second-hand leather

The surface

Dry or supple? A well-maintained piece flexes with movement and has depth to the leather. A piece that feels stiff and creaks with every movement has likely been stored in conditions that were too hot or too dry for a long time.

Seams and stitching

Check the stitching for even tension. Loose or broken threads, or seams with thick, messy knots, indicate wear or a previous repair. Neat, even stitching usually points to skilled craftsmanship.

The lining and underside

With older jackets, the lining often reveals more about the condition than the exterior. If the lining is tearing at the armpits or along the hem, or if it is brittle and cracked, that is often the point where the garment will eventually fail.

Zippers and hardware

A zipper that doesn’t run smoothly, a wobbly buckle, or a worn-down ring makes an item more difficult to use. With high-quality vintage pieces, these components are often still in good shape, which is a significant factor.

Wear points

Check the areas that bear the most stress: elbows, seat, knees, forearms, and the edges of pockets and cuffs. Uneven, soft discoloration in these areas is normal; seams coming apart or material that has worn thin and smooth is not.

Dehydration

Fine cracking, a dull surface, and stiff creases are signs of dehydrated leather. This can often be remedied, but it requires time and the right product. It is also a reason why you shouldn’t simply compare prices directly.

Leather types vary

The list below is not a quality ranking, but rather an overview of what you will encounter in practice.

• Cowhide is the most common leather for jackets and trousers. It is generally thicker and has a distinct grain, often with a visible underside that feels warm against the skin.
• Lambskin is lighter and softer, with a finer grain. It is often chosen for jackets and mittens where freedom of movement is important.
• Goatskin is thinner and more supple, often featuring a characteristic grainy texture. It is widely used for gloves and smaller details.
• Suede and nubuck are not separate durability categories but rather types of finish: the surface has been sanded, making it vulnerable to water, stains, and friction. See also the care page.

What most influences how a piece feels is not the label, but the thickness, the finish, and whether the piece suits your body and intended use.

What can—and cannot—be judged from a photo?

Can: color and shade, overall condition, visible tears or stains, the shape of the garment, the presence of stitching and hardware, and—in a close-up—much of the grain.

Cannot: the material itself, the thickness of the leather, the quality of the lining, or whether the piece is actually comfortable. You also cannot judge smell or suppleness from a photo.

A photo is therefore a good starting point for a conversation, but not definitive proof. If you want to be certain about what you are getting, the piece needs to be seen and felt in person.

When would Johnny pass on an item?

To avoid wasting money on a find that isn’t right, Johnny will leave a piece alone if, for example, there are: tears running through the material, hard or sticky spots, a lining or underside that has rotted through, worn-out or permanently fixed hardware on an item that relies on that hardware for use, or a piece whose condition cannot be clearly assessed.

That is a reason not to pursue it further, even if the price looks attractive. A good price doesn’t make up for a piece that doesn’t work.