Maintaining leather clothing.

Always start by identifying what you have

Care doesn’t start with a product, but with the material. Smooth leather, suede, nubuck, and faux leather all react differently; using the wrong product can leave a stain or a hard patch that is harder to remove than the original stain.

Not sure? Describe the item: the material, color, finish, and where the label is located. When in doubt, we recommend identifying the material and finish before using any product.

Always test first

Test any product on an inconspicuous area, such as the inside of a hem or a section usually covered by other clothing. Let it sit for a few minutes and check the result in daylight before treating the entire item.

Cleaning

Smooth leather

First, remove loose dirt with a lukewarm, damp cloth or a soft brush. Use a small amount of mild soap or a specialized leather cleaner. Do not scrub vigorously, as this can roughen the surface.

Suede and nubuck

These materials have a sanded surface that quickly becomes dull and stiff when exposed to soap and water. Use a dry or barely damp brush and a product specifically designed for suede or nubuck. Always test it first.

Stains

Remove a stain by treating it, not by rubbing. For fresh stains, a quick and gentle approach usually works best. With set-in or old stains, the risk of further damage often outweighs the potential benefit; seek advice before attempting removal.

Drying

Allow leather to dry naturally at room temperature, away from direct sunlight. Do not dry using a hair dryer, on a radiator, or over an open fire. Heat draws moisture out of the leather, making it hard and prone to cracking.

This is especially important for thick jackets, which take a long time to dry. Drying too quickly often results in hard, discolored patches that cannot be removed.

Nourishing and protecting

After cleaning, you can use a conditioner specifically formulated for the type of leather in question. Conditioner keeps the leather supple and reduces the risk of it drying out. Do not use general-purpose leather oil or shoe cream on clothing; these are often too heavy and can leave a residue or stain.

Check beforehand that the product is suitable for your leather’s color and finish. Test on an inconspicuous area and use sparingly.

When not to use a product

• For an item you cannot identify yourself. Seek advice first.
• If there are damaged seams or hard, sticky patches. A product will not solve structural issues.
• For linings or undersides that have deteriorated. Surface treatment will not help in such cases.
• For historical or valuable items. Have these assessed by a specialist first.
• For faux leather. Use only products specifically designed for this material.

Long-term storage

Hanging and folding

Hang a coat on a sturdy, wide hanger that follows the shoulder line. Stuffing it with clean, acid-free material helps maintain its shape. Do not fold a leather coat for extended periods; this causes permanent creases.

Sun, heat, and moisture

Store leather in a cool, dry place—away from direct sunlight and out of the car. Heat and moisture accelerate drying out and discoloration.

Pockets

Check that pockets are empty before storing. Grease, hair, and moisture inside a pocket can slowly seep into the leather, causing stains that are difficult to remove later.

Mold

Black, gray, or green spots and a musty odor indicate mold. Avoid bleach, cleaning agents, and sunlight; these won’t solve the problem and will actually make it worse. Place the item in a space where it can dry out, and consult Johnny or a leather specialist on the next steps before opening, folding, or wearing it again.

Summary

Always identify the item first, always test on an inconspicuous area first, always air-dry, and ask if in doubt. This prevents a routine maintenance task from turning into a problem.

Do you have a specific item or a unique type of leather? Read more about leather and materials ↗